Unusual shapes define Mr. Cardin, and this jacket is an iconic example of his taste. I’m always left thinking the elegance of his designs could have walked straight out of the 40s, and that he would have been great pals with Balenziaga- or at least I like to imagine what fashion today would be like had that happened.
The pattern is reasonably simple, once you have a dartless bodice, you simply use the armhole to draft a ‘plank of wood’ sleeve head. The tricker part is keeping the defined right angles of the corners as you add ease. It’s also a pain to hang in a wardrobe.
For an excellent retrospective of Pierre Cardin’s work, see ‘Pierre Cardin: Fifty Years of Fashion and Design’ by Elisabeth Längle.